I've had that old Waylon and Willie song stuck in my head since I got here.
I hung around Brownsville for a couple of days taking care of bike maintenance. It was really cold and wet in Brownsville and that wore thin pretty quick. Once I got it mostly sorted out I headed for Louisiana. It was bright and sunny but cold on the road. Day time high of only about 10 c with the wind chill below 0. I am not used to it anymore. After a full day on the road and a night in a crummy motel that smelled like smoke and had drunks knocking on the door in the middle of the night looking to borrow cigarettes. I decided to turn around and head west. I have decided that I don't want to add more miles to the ride home. Especially if they are not pleasant miles. It appears that the weather is better in the west than here. I have a lot I would like to see out there. Also to be honest I am missing a certain individual at home, well actually I miss everyone but one person in particular comes to mind. I still need to take my time going home as I really do not want to crash on a shady curve on black ice.
So the drunks at the door thing. These small towns in seem to be run down and depressed. There are a lot of people who seem to be escaping life in these towns. The towns remind me of the down town eastside but not quite as in your face. Every gas station has a drug dealer. The people are just not happy. I didn't see this in California even though it does seem run down there. The level of despair is higher here. It's too bad because one thing I have learned is that contrary to popular belief else where in the world Americans are really friendly and are mostly caring people. Even the fellow that complained to me that he was not allowed to take his gun to Canada complained with humor and acceptance. Texans are very friendly and will always stop and chat like they know you. This happens in the big towns as well as the little ones. We could use a bit more of this in our reserved Canada. Almost all of the Americans I talk to are either politically unaware or feel helpless to change the policy of there nation. They seem to be aware of their reputation in the world at large and even apologize for their country frequently. I do not understand why they elect people who do not have the values they have. It is strange. I have told American people that I found Americans nice and have actually had them tell me that this was a local thing and every where else in American people are not nice. Imagine having that belief about your countrymen.
After turning west things improved quickly. The weather warmed within a couple of hours and more importantly I felt better within minutes. I had a great day traveling across southern Texas. I finished the day in a place called Del Rio. I went for dinner to a place called Sal's Burgers. The burger was ok but I have had better. A good try Sal but not the winner of the best diner I think there will be better ones to come.
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| Texas is big sky country. |
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| It reminds me of our praries, I never pictured it like this |
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| A typical small town complete with a saloon. This si the whole town. |
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| A closer view showing only part of the town. |
From here I will head north west for Roswell New Mexico...
I left Del Rio early after only a coffee and a quick internet stop at the local McDonald's. My plan was to try and get a classic breakfast in a small cafe or diner along the way. I had one in Oregon a few years back when I was riding my bike to Reno that was truly memorable. It is still the best breakfast
out I have ever eaten and I wanted to find a breakfast like it. I stopped in at this place but it just did not measure up. In fact it couldn't even come close. The food was edible but thats all.

I made it as far as Carlsbad New Mexico on the 27th. It was a long cold day on the bike. It never got above freezing until just before I quit for the day. The weather was spectacularly sunny though. I did go through some areas that were not as flat along the way and even saw some really interesting canyons as well. I got to see some road runners today. They are about the size of a grouse or fool hen , or maybe a pheasant. I could not get a picture but they looked just like this one that I got from the internet.
I also got to see many of these since I was in Texas after all. I wonder if any of them belong to the Bush family?
Near the end of the day I met a guy named Ben who invited me to stop in and see him on my way by. He had a place about 25 miles north of Pecos Texas where I met him. He had a business card with a picture of his place on it. He said when you see this place stop in for a beer. Well sure enough as I proceeded up the highway there it was.
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| Ben's place |
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He was quite a character. He had spent his entire working life in the Navy on various Aircraft carriers. He was a really nice guy and based on the number of people from all over the world that have signed his building he invites a lot of people over for a beer. I sat and passed some time with him having a beer and hearing stories of all the places he had been to in the Navy. An interesting hour or so to be sure.
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| Ben being Ben. Note the door. Most od the building is covered with signatures like these. |
I arrived in Carlsbad an hour before I thought I would as I crossed into the Mountain time zone at the New Mexico state line.
I started my day in Carlsbad with a good breakfast at a diner called Happy's The theme was of all things the Happy face from the 70's. While this breakfast was not as good as the one from the past in Oregon, it was very good. The country spuds as they called them were chuncky and pan fried with diced onion, green pepper, and a bit of cilantro. They were not at all greasy. There was a home made Sala to go with them that was excellent but a bit mild for me after eating Salsa in Latin America for last few months. The eggs were perfectly cooked and were acompanied by a real Ham steak about an inch thick. The ham could have been a bit hotter but was really tasty and of excellent real smoke house quality. The toast needed work. Remember I am searching for the best so I am being pretty critical. By normal standards this was a good breakfast out. The price? $4.50 including endless coffee!
Carlsbad Caverns was worth the time and $6.00 to go and look. They are not the biggest caverns in the world as was reported by a fellow I met on the road but they are pretty big. I did the self guided tour with a little recording device that you can rent for an additional $3.00. This device has numbers much like a remote comtrol. The pathway has little placards with numbers on them. You simply punch in the number and hold the device to your ear. The device gives a prerecorded description of what you are looking at by a tour guide / ranger. I liked this idea as I like to move through these kinds of thing at my own pace. I find I walk much faster than many people do. I ended up going a total of 750 feet under ground verticaly, and the Cavern is at least a couple of miles long It is bigger but you are not allowed to self guide the whole developed part of the cavern. Some of it is too sensitive and requires a guide. Carlsbad claims to be one of the most beutiful caverns in the world. It was quite nice to look at for sure with many nice "decorations" as they are refered to. It took me a total of about 2 hours of steady walking to go through the cave. When I arrived I discovered that there are no lockers to keep personal belongings in while touring the cave. It was only 22 deg. F when I rode out there so I was dressed to the 9's. I did not see it being possible to tour around in all that gear plus I had my helmet and tank bag as well. The lack of lockers and the fact that the staff are not allowed to keep things in a storage area is because of 9/11. The Homeland security people are worried about bombs being left in lockers. After asking around a person who shall remain nameless let me put my stuff in the kennel. Pets are also not allowed on the site so there is a rather nice complimentary kennel to put them in while you do your tour. Thanks nameless person, I could not have had my tour with out your help.
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| The entrance to the Cavern |
Most of my photos inside the Cavern did not work. I am not a very knowledgeable photographer. Here are a coouple of pictures that are not just black.
As I said before when I rode out to the park it was in the low 20's when I came out of the cavern 2 hours latter it was about 70 F outside. What a fantastic surprise. I had a most enjoyable ride up to Roswell from Carlsbad. The sun was shining and it was warm enough to shed a couple of layers.
Roswell was as I expected all out the Aliens. There were Alien themed things all over the downtown core. It was kind of fun to walk around and check out the tacky gift shops. After a couple of hours I got a motel room that was a bit more than what I like to spend but ok. I had to give up on camping as my sleeping bag was much to light for sub zero temperatures. Besides I discovered that in the right part of town you can get a motel room for about $25.00, camping has been averaging $22.00. The rooms have been clean and bug free unlike some of the others I've had on this trip! After some bike maintenence I went for a walk and ended up in a typical small local Tavern. I had a beer and listened to the local working guys talk about hunting conquests. From here it was off to the local non chain burger place where I had an ok burger but not a contender for the best title. Over all a really nice day.
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| A store window decoration |
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| This was in a gift shop |
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| These were painted on the side walks. |
Overall I enjoyed my visit to New Mexico. I will leave for Arizona Friday morning. I am trying to stay ahead of some lousy weather that is coming this way.